Every time we talk about refrigeration or anything that has to do with chilling food, we normally think of the refrigerators that we generally keep in our homes. However, when we are talking about commercial application of refrigeration equipment then we are actually referring to a completely different category of fridges. This category of refrigeration equipment includes display fridges, blast chiller and fish refrigerators. Here are some essential references about this commercial refrigeration equipment.

The blast chiller is the first type of commercial refrigeration that we are going to discuss. There are a number of sub-types of the blast chiller that are available for a broad range of applications. However, the major purpose of the blast chiller is to achieve the required low temperature at the fastest time frame in order to lock in the freshness of the food items that are stored. Majority of the commercial chillers are able to go from a high of 70 degrees F to about 3 degrees F in just an hour and a half. This refrigeration equipment is also essential for compliance of various food safety and handling and storage standards that are in place. There are a broad range of choices when it comes to blast chillers and it is very important that you are able to determine the right unit that meets the needs and requirements of your business.

The next category of commercial refrigeration includes the display fridge and freezers. These are generally the type of commercial refrigeration equipment that you will normally find in the grocery store or a convenience store. Through the display fridge and freezer, customers may be able to see the food items that are on sale without having to open the door. You can also choose from several kinds and styles of display fridge where the door is not included. The display fridge is also a familiar fixture in food stores. This commercial refrigeration equipment can also come in smaller versions where drinks can displayed along counters where the customers can conveniently reach for their favorite drinks.

The third major category of commercial refrigeration is the fish fridge. This is simply a commercial fridge that is specially designed for handling of fish which are organized in trays. The size will depend upon the volume of fish that you normally handle in your store. There are several design options for this type of commercial fridge. Your decision on a particular subtype of this commercial fridge must be carefully considered as it is essential to maintain proper temperature setting when storing the fish in your store. You may also opt to have fish cases for your fish fridge so that you can conveniently display the fish and maintain the required level of temperature at the same time.

You can get more details and further information about display fridge and the other types of commercial refrigeration as well as your best options for your business by checking our website at http://www.fridgefreezerdirect.com

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American company, GreenCore Air released such an air conditioner that is powered by a 170 watt solar panel. It can cool a large room, and runs off a battery bank when the sun isn’t shining. The portable version of this environmentally friendly air conditioner comes on wheels so you can easily move it around the house. Macdonald’s in the US and the US Navy have invested in some of these air conditioners for a trial run.

Rotartica, a Spanish company, has developed a similar small-scale solar air-conditioning unit. Rotartica has used the latest technology to combine evacuated tube thermal collectors with a water-heated absorption chiller. The unit takes in solar- heated water and releases cool air. Unfortunately, it doesn’t have the capabilities to run at night but it will cool a room on hot days without the need to tap into electricity supplies that are under strain on these hot days.

Another American invention, Solcool Millennium can run on solar panels, a wall socket or even batteries. Even if they use coal-powered electricity, they are still energy efficient. Solcool’s latest units also have attachments for water purification. Giving the reason for developing these solar-powered units, Roger Pruitt, president of Solcool said, “Air conditioning takes the biggest load on the power grid. We’re trying to use small PV (photovoltaic solar) cells and equip them with 18,000 BTUs (a unit of energy) of air conditioning”. The unit operates at 500watts which is far less power than other units use.  

The development of solar-powered air conditioning units has been in the pipeline for awhile. The Chinese company, Broad, for example, started installing their units in 2006. Air conditioners are essential in most homes but they contribute to pollution and high energy bills. If solar power is effectively developed, it can be used for all heating and cooling systems in homes and businesses, and costs would be cut in the long run.

Frances wrote this article for the online marketers Ice Boys air conditioners one of the leading suppliers of air conditioners in the UK.

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There are tons of things to do when you’re in the kitchen. Whether or not we realize it, or come to even think of, often there are many things that need attention. Here are a list of things you can do when you’re too free:

1. Get talking and learn your food science
   This is the best time to communicate with your ’seniors’ or superiors. Go talk to them, ask them about their history, how to handle certain special products, what have you read over the internet and not sure of, how types of lobsters are available in the market and what’s most famous in restaurants around, etc. Chat them up – Get more insight on their personal life. Many people like to talk about themselves – And if you can charm their friendly nature into your mind, you’ll be a go-getter!

2. Lurk around those who are busy and learn their skills
   Cracking up a lame joke isn’t always the worst thing to do – It channels creativity and at the same time give a childish-like ambient in the kitchen where you can benefit. Sure, people might think of you as someone who does not know ANYTHING – And that’s the best part of it. That’s when you lower your ego and learn something new. Look at how people cook, how they portion and slice, how they manage foodstuff; you’ll learn many things by just looking.

3. Food experimentation
   You do not need to be a scientist to experiment crazy food mixes or try out that simple thing you learn by looking at someone else doing it. Go on, pick up your pan and flip something – Many bosses love proactive staff and most of the time it’s rewarding to both your employer and you, the employee. If you’re in a situation where you’re worried you might screw up or cannot do that, be advised – Do not make the situation worse. By all means, do something else.

4. Run along and help your mates
   Helping your mates not only boost their morale, but also their perception towards you. But make sure you will draw a line to these ‘help’. Simply helping blindly can let them take advantage of you – Worse still, in events of emergency, do not return you the favor. Doing this can also enhance your knowledge and challenge your skillsets – As you go along, the more you do, the more you learn.

5. Help out your kitchen steward / Dishwasher / Prep Guys
   Helping your kitchen steward may not only give you the chance to communicate better with people, but also gives you the chance to learn something you never thought you’d ever learn. By talking to these people, you gain better insight of what their work is, what is their feeling, give them the sense of friendliness, etc. Best ever, they will share their knowledge with you regarding their culture and stories from abroad, or local (if they are local). Being in the kitchen isn’t just about food – It’s about being more than just food.

6. Be sharp and look around you
   If your kitchen mates do a good job in the kitchen, you may not need to worry much. Still, there are things that can be missed – Arrangement of kitchen items, fridge/chiller problems, hygiene problems, floor problems, mise en place, kitchen invoices, kitchen orders, kitchen checklist, spoilt foods, damaged ingredients, etc. There are many things around the kitchen that need attention – And you need to give these some attention.

Don’t DO THESE when you’re too free:

1. Ask someone “What else is there to do in the kitchen”
   On the negative point of view, asking this could mean many things. It’s either you’re not very sharp in the eye, not clear of the restaurant’s duties, not understanding your nature of work, not being at all diligent enough, etc. Take note that many seniors could take advantage of you when you say this – Simply do whatever you think you need to do, and if you have nothing to do, refer to the above.

2. Play in the kitchen
   Not only you’re endangering yourself, but you’re also endangering others. Throwing food and water at each other could be fun, but wait until the waiter walks in and trip. That could be even funnier – But dangerous. Keep in mind that the kitchen is a very dangerous place. The kitchen comprises of natural elements like water and fire which could be hazardous if not used properly. Worse still, what could happen if someone tripped and land his face onto the hot grill?

3. Walk out to the service area during restaurant hours
   Walking out to the service area not only shows your unprofessionalism, but it also shows that you are taking Restaurant Ethics lightly. Your Head Chef can do that because he’s well dressed for the situation, and do not have as much dirt on his body as you: Or at least he has the honor to do that because it’s his job. Another addition of ‘human’ to the service area increases chances of accidents, least space (mentally) and pest-y.

4. Play with fire
   Playing with fire is fun. No, seriously. It is very fun. On the other hand, think of the dangers. In life, anything can happen. Imagine you’re taunting (or dancing in front of) the fire and suddenly it burns you. Worse still, burns someone else. Worst, the whole kitchen. In many incidents, playing with fire can also mean heating up a metal utensil on naked fire, then listening to the “SSSSStttttt” sound when it’s place under water or worse, in a soup. Or burning a box of matches with one matchstick lit and placed into the box.

5. Loiter too long outside
   Loitering is considered resting, or resting is considered loitering; depending on how your Head Chef perceives them. Leaving the kitchen too long can lead to unwanted mishaps such as spillage of soup due to overboiling, sticking of foods to the pan due to ignorance of time to add water, etc. Such events are wasteful pieces of art and can take a huge toll in your job (if your Chef finds out).

6. Gossip and start the kitchen political war
   In events kitchen management or any other management out there, those who better together and have stronger relationships do a better job at the end of the day. What the Head Chef should always avoid is politics. Yes, it’s virtually impossible to stop these petty little talks, but at least inspire those who are in there and create a kitchen culture where such things are not talked about, MUCH. Too much of these can lead to much misunderstanding, lowered food quality and so forth.

Von Cook is the Chef de Partie and writer of Food Central, a busy kitchen in Malaysia cooking for Royalties. Von Cook has ventured to almost everything of 10 Head Chef’s 20 or more years of food and cooking experience and is sharing his food knowledge now with you.

Visit Food Central at http://foodcentral.wordpress.com

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If you’ve enjoyed all the exciting information you read here about these Wine Refrigerators, you’ll love everything else you find at Avanti Wine Refrigerators

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• 7 speed options for versatile mixing

• An easy to use slider to shift from one speed to the next

• Convenient swivel cord

• Dishwasher safe beaters that come in extra long length

• Ejection lever for quick beater removal

• 220 watt power

• Manufacturer’s warranty

That is quite a few features in a single mixer. If you are still not convinced, take a look at the benefits found in hand mixer reviews when compared to stand mixers:

• Easy storage that requires less space

• Can be placed in a drawer and does not require any standing room

• Fast care, simply wash beaters and wipe down the appliance

• Significantly lower cost

• Economical choice for casual, everyday cooking

The Cuisinart Power Advantage mixer may be your better option rather than forking out hundreds of dollars for a heavy stand mixer. You may consider simply doing it all by yourself with no mechanical assistance. However, hand mixer reviews might provide a little more insight on why doing it yourself is more time consuming and frustrating:

• Food on clothing and hands can be difficult to wash off, however a hand mixer allows you to keep it in the bowl.

• You get an even mix every time.

• You will find dishes finished faster due to less mixing time than would be required when done by hand.

• Every time you use your hand mixer, you know you are getting an even, smooth batter or dough.

• No aching fingers or arms when you use an appliance.

Kitchen mixers are “hands-free” and can be used to mix thick bread dough and cake batter, whisk egg whites, and prepare large batches of food at a time. The electric hand mixers are most popular, allowing the experienced cook to whip up something for cooking and baking within a reasonable time frame. Blenders can be used for many different things but are best at making smoothies, milkshakes, purees, and soup. Learn more about kitchen stand mixers and blender mixers today!

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Question: What basic equipment and other items do I need to start a saltwater aquarium?

Answer:

1.The tank: Contrary to what you might think, starting with a small tank is not the best option. In fact, the bigger, the better. You see, a larger volume of water is less apt to be affected by the sudden water changes that are common in a beginner’s tank. Think of it this way: If you take a cup of water and a gallon of water and add a drop of blue food coloring to each, which one is going to have the greatest color change? Correct, the cup. Now imagine you have a fish die in your tank while you are at work. As the fish decays, it produces toxic ammonia. The smaller the volume of water, the more detrimental the ammonia will be to the other tank inhabitants. Simply put, a larger tank is more forgiving. A good size to start with is 55 gal or larger.

2. Water: If you’ve ever had foul tasting tap water, you know that not all water is created equal. Tap water can contain a variety of chemicals, minerals, and other impurities that are not conducive to reef keeping. Tap water will likely contain chlorine and possibly chloramines and even nitrates and phosphate. So, what kind of water do you want to use. There are lots of options, the most common of which, is water purified by Reverse Osmosis (RO water). In the interest of keeping this simple, and not getting over my own head, let’s just say that reverse osmosis gives you the purist water. You’ll find RO water at most any supermarket – just check the label. If you go to Wal-Mart, it is the one with the green cap and runs less than sixty cents per gallon at the time of this writing. There are also home RO units widely available to reef keepers if you want to purify your own water.

3. Filtration: This can be a real can of worms. There are many different options and many, many different theories regarding the best type of filtration for a reef tank. The most common, and accepted method is the use of live rock (LR) and a deep sand bed along with a protein skimmer. Live rock, is a simple way of saying porous carbonate-based rock that is host to both macro and microorganisms. Because of the highly porous nature of LR, it is able to support vast amounts of both aerobic and anaerobic bacteria. Make sure you use rock that won’t leech minerals into the water.

Live Rock is host to both aerobic nitrifying bacteria, which live on the rock surface, and anaerobic denitrifying bacteria, which live in the denser pores deeper within the LR. Like LR, sand also provides a good home to both types of bacteria. (See the section below on the Nitrogen Cycle for more information on this topic).

In order to provide enough LR to be an effective biological filter, you want to have between 1.5 to 2 lbs of live rock per gallon of water. So, in a 55 gal tank, you would want between about 82.5 – 110 lbs of live rock.

A Deep Sand Bed (DSB) typically, is two to four inches deep and provides lots of surface area for beneficial bacteria. The surface portion is host to the nitrosomonas and the deeper, less oxygenated layer, is home to the nitrobacters.

Now you may be saying to yourself, surely there’s a way to remove the fish waste before it begins to breakdown and becomes a problem on the microscopic level. Guess what, you’re right!

The protein skimmer is the means by which the fish waste, excess food, and other proteins are removed from the water. These combinations of waste products are often referred to as Dissolved Organic Compounds or DOC’s. There are several types of protein skimmers and each has their pros and cons, but they all have one thing in common – using foaming bubbles to remove waste from the water. The skimmers vary in the way the bubbles are produced but the basic operation is this: bubbles are produced in the skimmer, the smaller the better, and the DOC’s stick to the bubbles and are carried into a collection cup which can be periodically emptied. The waste in the collection cup is called skimate. A protein skimmer’s efficiency is judged by its ability to produce skimate. But no matter how effective a skimmer is you will still need biological filtration.

This covers just the basics of filtration. Please read as much information as you can find on this topic. The better you understand how this process works, the more success you will have.

4. Lights: The type of lighting you provide will depend directly on what you choose to keep in your tank. If you want to keep a Fish Only (FO) tank, then you can get by with just standard fluorescent lighting. If you want to keep corals or anemones, you will need stronger lighting. The rule of thumb is 3-5 watts per gallon – as technologies progress this rule of thumb is becoming less accurate. Many factors such as the type of lighting, the depth of the tank, and placement of corals will be important as well.

You have lots of options to choose from but most are a combination of three technologies: Power Compact Fluorescents (PC), Very High Output (VHO), or Metal Halide (MH.).

Power compacts will allow you to keep a variety of corals, including all soft corals, and a limited selection of hard corals – mostly large polyp stonies (LPS).

VHO, while not as intense as PC lights, are offered in higher wattages and by themselves allow a similar selection of corals to be kept. However, VHO are often used in conjunction with Metal Halides.

Metal Halides offer the greatest range of options allowing reef keepers to meet the lighting requirements of even the most demanding corals, including small polyp stonies (SPS). The drawback to MH lighting is the relatively high cost, and the intense heat that they put off. Special cooling precautions have to be taken to maintain water temperature when using MH lighting. At a minimum, you will need to have one or more fans cooling the lights and surface of the water. Another, more costly cooling option is the use of a chiller.

Another less common option that is gaining popularity is the use of T-5 lighting. T-5’s are a type of High Output fluorescent lighting (HO) but which have a smaller diameter and greater intensity than other types of fluorescents. Proponents say T-5’s will one day replace MH’s, but others maintain that they do not have the ability to penetrate as deep and should only be used for shallow tanks no deeper than 18″.

As stated, these are generalizations. Many reef keepers have had success keeping all manner of marine life using each of these types of lighting.

5. Circulation: The goal of every reef keeper should be to replicate the natural ocean conditions as much as possible. By doing so, you have the greatest chance of creating a hospitable environment for your fish, corals, and invertebrates. Circulation is typically provided by power heads, which are small pumps placed in the water, which draw water in and then pump it out at higher pressure. The rule of thumb here is ten times the water volume per hour. If we use our hypothetical 55 gal tank, this would mean we would want at least 550 gph of water flow. The power heads should be placed in a manner as to simulate ocean currents while creating flow in all portions of the tank and avoiding “dead spots.” Dead spots, areas of the tank with low circulation, can allow waste to settle out of the water column where it can decompose and raise the levels of harmful ammonia.

Question: What are Nitrates (the Nitrogen Cycle)?

Answer: As mentioned earlier, decaying fish produce ammonia. In fact living fish produce ammonia as a product of respiration. It is also produced as fish waste and uneaten food decompose (DOC’s.) If allowed to exist in any significant amount, ammonia will wreak havoc on your tanks inhabitants and can cause death. This is where the bacteria enter the picture. The bacteria, which use ammonia in their own metabolic process, are called nitrosomonas. Nitrosomonas thrive in a highly oxygenated environment and consume ammonia in a process called aerobic nitrification. As these bacteria multiply, they use up the ammonia and produce nitrites as a by-product. Unfortunately Nitrites are also toxic to the marine environment. Luckily this isn’t the end of the cycle and there are bacteria which also consume nitrites. These bacteria thrive in low oxygen environments and are called nitrobacteria. They consume nitrites in a process called anaerobic (or anoxic) denitrification. The nitrobacteria convert the nitrite into nitrates. Nitrates are the end of the line in this process. The nitrates are LESS harmful to aquatic life than ammonia or nitrites, but still should not be allowed in any significant quantity. Nitrates are removed via frequent, small water changes – usually 10-20% per week. Some people choose to make larger, less frequent water changes. There are some other options for reducing nitrates, but that is a topic for another day.

Question: How do I set my tank up?

Answer: Even after having the basic information about equipment and biological processes, you may still run into little questions along the way – stuff like, how do I mix the water, and how do I cycle my tank. We are going to try to address a few of these more common questions.

Important: Before adding water to your tank, make sure that the tank and stand are level. Having a tank that is not level can lead to your tank bursting!

The next decision you need to make is if you want to use sand or crushed coral as your substrate (base layer). Some people choose to have a bare bottom tank for aesthetic reasons, but most use one of the two aforementioned substrates.

For biological filtration, a deep sand bed is the most recommended substrate. The sand should be clean argonite sand. Silica based sand can be harmful to some sand sifting creatures that you may decide to keep. Another option still chosen by many people is crushed coral. Crushed coral will not be as effective at hosting anoxic bacteria as will a DSB, but it is readily available and many prefer its appearance to sand. After laying your substrate, you are ready for water.

As discussed earlier, you’ll want to begin with water purified through reverse osmosis. When filling the tank for the first time, it is OK to mix the water and salt in the tank. Once you have livestock in your tank, you’ll want to mix the saltwater in a bucket or barrel and then add it to the tank. There are several salt mixes out there, all of which have their fans, and detractors. Regardless of which one you choose you will want to mix it to salinity between 1.022-1.025. For most salt mixes, you will get close to the desired salinity by adding salt mix at the rate of ½ cup per gallon of water. For your initial setup, don’t fill the tank all the way. Remember you are going to displace water with a large amount of rock. Also, you want to leave enough room in the tank to adjust your salinity. If your salinity is too high, you will add more RO water, if it is too low, you will add more slightly concentrated saltwater. Most reef keepers use a simple swing arm hydrometer to measure salinity, but you may eventually want to consider a more accurate device such as a refractometer. Once you have water in your tank, you will want to place and plug in your power heads.

The next step is to add your live rock. Live rock comes two ways, cured or uncured. When live rock is removed from the ocean it is full of marine life. During the subsequent transportation, some of this marine life will begin to die-off. The process of curing live rock means allowing the decaying process to complete before adding it to your tank. Adding uncured lr to your tank may cause an ammonia spike. Normally such a spike is undesirable, but when starting a new tank, it can aid in cycling the tank – More on “cycling” in a moment.

You can either use all live rock or, if you want to save money, you can use 20% live rock and 80% base rock. Base rock is porous carbonate based rock that has either not been in an ocean or reef tank or was but has since been removed. If you go this route, just remember that it will take time for your base rock to become home to the macro and microorganisms typically found in live rock. After a period of time, the base rock and live rock will be indistinguishable.

As you add the rock, be mindful of how it is placed. You want to make sure that it is stable and will not topple over once you add livestock. You’d hate to see your favorite fish crushed to death in a rockslide – not to mention that many of the larger pieces of rock are quite heavy and could easily break your glass. Can you say, Noah’s Ark? Let’s hope you never have a flood! If you are especially concerned about falling rock, or want to try some interesting aquascaping, consider options such as using PVC as a brace for your rockwork. After adding the sand and rock, your tank will likely be very cloudy. At this time, start any filtration devices that you will be using and within a couple of days, the water should be clear.

Once your live rock is in place, your tank will begin to cycle. Cycling is the process by which the bacteria are established in your tank. If you add a sufficient amount of live rock, your tank is essentially already cycled, but if you don’t add live rock or only add a small amount, you will need to help the process. Either way, you need to provide a food source for the bacteria – namely ammonia. If you are using lr rock to cycle your tank, you can add a couple of hardy fish to provide an ammonia source. People often use damsels for this task, but please bear in mind that damsels can be very aggressive to other fish and are also extremely difficult to remove from a tank with lots of rockwork.

If you are not using LR to cycle, you will want to provide an alternate source of ammonia – there’s no good reason to risk killing a fish in a tank that is not yet ready to support life. Instead, you can either add a pinch of fish food to your tank each day, or drop in a raw shrimp. As the food or shrimp begin to decompose, ammonia levels will begin to rise. After a few days, start checking ammonia levels. After about a week, you will see a peek in ammonia and then levels will begin to decrease. The decrease in ammonia means that the levels of nitrosomonas are increasing. Once you see the decrease in ammonia, start checking nitrite levels. Like ammonia, the nitrite levels will rise for about a week until they peek and begin to decline. At this point the nitrobacter population is increasing. Once you see this decrease, you should start checking nitrate levels. Nitrate levels will increase and peak at about the same time nitrite levels reach zero. Once this has occurred, you should be at about the three-week point. In order to lower the high level of nitrates, you will need to do a massive water change – draining 50% of you water and replacing it with new saltwater. At this point you should begin to slowly add livestock while daily checking your nitrate levels. Nitrate should not exceed 40 ppm in a fish only tank, or 10 ppm in a reef tank. If you have proper filtration, stocking, and maintenance your nitrate levels should remain very close to zero. In order to keep a bacterial balance, it is wise to wait a week or more between livestock additions to your tank.

Question: What do I do now (Am I ready to add fish)?

Answer: Before you add ANY fish, coral, or invertebrate to your tank, be sure to thoroughly research your potential purchase BEFORE bringing it home. You will find that many creatures are not compatible with one another or you may find a beautiful fish only to discover that it is a voracious coral eater. Many reef keepers find it useful to compile a list of compatible fish and corals – ones that will live in harmony with one another, are well suited to your tank size, and lighting. Make sure to take the list with you whenever you go to the local fish store (lfs) so you won’t be tempted to make an inappropriate spur of the moment purchase. Also be mindful of the order that you add the fish with the more territorial going in last so the less aggressive fish can establish territories.

When seeking advice at the various lfs’s be mindful that just because someone works in a pet or fish store, does not mean they know what they are talking about. This seems to be especially true of the large chain stores. Unfortunately there are also those out there who will allow you to make an unwise purchase just so they can make a sale.

Although the topic is not covered here, I strongly encourage you to do some research on setting up a quarantine tank. A quarantine tank is used to monitor your new livestock for several weeks to make sure they are free of disease before adding to your main tank. It is much easier to treat for disease in a quarantine tank than it is one full of corals and other sensitive livestock. One final tip that is especially true in this hobby, “Patience IS a virtue.” Take your time and make sure you make informed decisions from the very start; this will help avoid unnecessary loss of livestock as well as cost savings.

Hopefully you have found this information useful and have a better grasp on just what is involved in this wonderful hobby.

Sean Berry is a freelance writer reef keeping enthusiast.

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When choosing to replace your chiller getting a new one installed the cost can be high. You must include all of the cost of getting a new electrical rough-in, concrete and site work, and demolition. The equipment cost of initially installing the new can come to about five to ten percent of the life cycle costs.

Another factor that needs to be taken into consideration is how reliable the chiller is that you are currently running. You should take into a count the cost of the repairs over the time you have owned the chiller. And how much downtime and then project the figures to future repairs and outages. Then you should factor in the effect of heightened reliability on equipment tied to the chilled-water system, such as air handlers serving critical spaces.

Since you have first purchased your water chiller many things may have changed, your business could have grown and what your business does may have expanded as well. So you may just be deciding weather to add another chiller so that you can lower the supply-water temperatures, or the increased overall system flow. The requirements for keeping up the space humidity, which it can depend on the temperature of your chilled-water supply, or it can depend on the other process requirements. This can quickly justify the need to install new one well before a payback period does.

The next step is to take into consideration the energy costs. To get this information you should calculate the wire-to-water ratio by recording the existing chiller power use in kilowatts (kW) versus delivered tonnage at full capacity. The newer chillers use the wire to water ratio of 0.5 kW per ton (kW/ton). That number is fairly low compared to the older model chillers which use 0.7 kW/ton. When you compare the older model to the newer model it can save you up to fifty percent.

These are all the factors that you should take into consideration when deciding weather or not to repair or replace.

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There are many health benefits that are associated with a portable or pre-built sauna – the steam for one is relaxing and while relaxing you are relieving stress, you are also releasing toxins and free radicals allowing for overall better health. Perhaps the most significant feature of all is the many health benefits associated with regular sauna use.

FIR uses the beneficial warming effects of the sun without the damaging UV, so it’s a safe and useful way to obtain the many health benefits of sauna usage. These benefits can include increased blood circulation, relief from pain, along with toxin removal and many others.

Sweating in your sauna at home is easy – you don’t have to go to the gym, you can do other things while taking your sauna, such as reading and you can do it whenever you want.

Many people are opting for the pre-built and portable infrared sauna because of its abilities to be moved and constructed easily. Now with that said I don’t think you will want to bring your pre-built sauna with you on your next weekend trip, on the other hand if you ever sell your house you can take your sauna along with you.

The pre-built sauna is very easy to construct. They normally come in two or three pieces. They can be put together within an hour. The instructions are very detailed and easy to follow.

Paul Hegarty is the owner of All-About-Saunas.com where you save 60%, on an Infrared Sauna , this includes free shipping.

Find out how a Pre-Built Sauna will work for you. Learn more about the far infrared sauna.

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Things Needed to Clean an Aquarium

To clean your aquarium you will need a siphon pipe and a sponge. A siphon pipe is used to remove poop and other debris from the gravel along with water. A water python can be used instead of a siphon pipe. The benefit of a water python is that this device can be directly attached the tap and the water can be directly be left in the garden. Water pythons are much longer than regular gravel siphon pipes. The sponge is used to clean the insides of the glass to remove algae and grime. You will also need a clean bucket to remove water and add fresh water.

Cleaning an Aquarium Mess Free

To clean your aquarium you will need to place the bucket on a lower surface than the tank and create suction using the siphon pipe or water python. You will then need to plunge the open ended mouth of the pipe so that poop and other debris are removed. After removing 30% water you should refill the tank using water that matches the temperature of your tank. You will then need to use water conditioners to remove harmful chemicals like chlorine and chloramines from the water. While it is considered safe to directly add the water from the tap to the tank and then add water conditioners, it is always advised to mix the water with the water conditioner in the bucket for the first few times. Aquarium salt can be added to the fresh water in the bucket before you pour the water in. In most cases chemicals that increase or decrease the PH need not be used. These PH related chemicals often do more good than harm.

Things to Know

The purpose of cleaning an aquarium is to ensure that your fish remain healthy. The best way to clean your aquarium is to remove 25 – 30% water every 5 – 7 days and refill it with clean water. Cleaning your aquarium regularly ensures that your fish do not get stressed and fall ill. While cleaning an aquarium you should not clean the filters. Instead you should clean the filters 2 – 3 days after cleaning the aquarium’s water. The reason it is recommended to clean the filter on a different day is because while siphoning the gravel you will be killing some of the beneficial bacteria and by cleaning the filter the same day you will be cleaning more beneficial bacteria. The filter should preferably be cleaned with used tank water so when you clean the aquarium you should keep aside a bucket to clean the filter. Most filters need to be cleaned once in 14 days but external canister filters would need to be cleaned once in 2 months.

Jason MacParland is a freshwater aquarium expert. For more great information on freshwater aquarium maintenance, visit http://www.easyfreshwateraquariumcare.com to learn more about setting up and maintaining a freshwater aquarium.

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One of the branches of cooking that has fascinated millions of people and is mastered only by the gifted and educated is baking. Thanks to the modern times and innovations, there are more and more appliances that make baking easier and a lot more convenient for the aspiring baker, and one of these handy appliances are dough mixers.

In baking, you will definitely encounter dough mixes every single time you intend to bake. After all, the dough can be compared to the concept when it comes to painting – a good concept with good colors and materials will definitely be a good work of art. However, making dough is never easy especially if you are new to baking. Some dough such as that of loaves requires a certain time-frame for kneading to ensure that it comes out soft from the oven. If you are unsure how to knead dough, this is where dough mixers come in.

Basically, a dough mixer is a table top appliance that comes in the form of a standard mixer. It has a bowl where you put the dough in, spiral metal rods to assist in mixing the dough, and a body that resembles that of the sewing machine. One of the good things about dough mixers is that they have preset modes for every type of dough that you need to make.

Mixing dough might be the most crucial part of baking because this determines the texture and consistency of the end product. Improper mixing which is often due to over mixing ingredients leads to more air pockets into the dough and consequently, a tougher bread. If you think that under mixing dough is the better option, you are wrong because this will then yield to dough that does not raise properly even with the right amount of yeast.

See, the art of baking is something that does not have exact measurements all throughout. Sometimes, proper knowledge about the effects of each process and each ingredient is crucial so while you are still studying and learning it by heart, appliances such as dough mixers come in very handy. With the dough mixer, all you need to do is put all the ingredients in the bowl, set the speed and mixer modes to the proper option, and turn on the machine. In no time, you will be having dough as smooth as silk with just the right elasticity that makes soft and tasty bread.

Not only do novice bakers benefit from a dough mixer, but even experienced bakers use this to reduce manual labor in the kitchen. Less stress, same ingredients, same results – that is what the dough mixer does.

Mary has been writing articles for over 4 years. Please visit her latest website reviewing home products such as Dough Mixers, with a look at bread dough mixers, as well as other small mixing appliances for those who love great home products.

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